India’s history of fabrics is as ancient as its civilisation, woven with threads of artistry, culture, and trade. Indian textiles have been celebrated for their diversity, vibrant colours, intricate patterns, and unparalleled craftsmanship, influencing global fashion and commerce for centuries.

Ancient Beginnings (5000 BCE–1000 BCE)

1. Indus Valley Civilization:

1. • Archaeological evidence from Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa (2600–1900 BCE) reveals the early use of cotton in India, making it one of the first civilizations to spin and weave cotton fabric.
   • Tools such as spindle whorls and dyed fabrics suggest a sophisticated textile industry.

2. Vedic Period (1500–500 BCE):

1. • The Rigveda and other Vedic texts mention the use of fabrics like cotton, wool, and silk.
   • Techniques like dyeing and embroidery began to emerge, with specific attire linked to social and religious practices.

Classical Era (500 BCE–800 CE)

1. Sangam Period (Tamil Nadu):

1. • Tamil literature from the Sangam era describes fine cotton and silk fabrics like Kavichi (silk) and Arangattu veshti (cotton cloth).
   • Fabrics like muslin and calico became prominent.

2. Silk and Trade:

1. • India became a key hub in the Silk Road, trading Indian silk with China, Rome, and Central Asia.
   • Roman records mention “Indian muslin”, often referred to as “woven air,” for its sheer quality.

3. Dyeing and Printing:

1. • The art of bandhani (tie-dye) and block printing flourished.
   • Natural dyes like indigo, madder, and turmeric were used to create vibrant colors.

Medieval Era (800–1700 CE)

1. Mughal Period (1526–1857):

1. • The Mughals elevated Indian textiles to new heights. The royal courts demanded luxurious fabrics like brocade (zari), velvet, and kinkhab.
   • Kashmir’s Pashmina and Banarasi silk gained legendary status.
   • Embroideries such as zardozi (gold thread work) and chikankari (delicate white embroidery) flourished under royal patronage.

2. Trade with Europe:

1. • By the 17th century, India was exporting calico and chintz to Europe, transforming global textile markets.
   • The East India Company played a major role in this trade, often exploiting India’s artisans and resources.

Colonial Era (1700–1947)

1. Decline of Indian Textile Industry:

1. • British policies aimed to suppress India’s textile production to promote British industrial goods.
   • Traditional weavers faced poverty as British-imported machine-made goods dominated markets.

2. Role in Freedom Struggle:

1. • Indian fabrics like khadi (handspun cotton) became symbols of resistance during the freedom movement, championed by Mahatma Gandhi.
   • Gandhi encouraged Indians to spin their own cloth as a way to oppose British industrial imports.

Post-Independence (1947–Present)

1. Revival of Traditional Crafts:

1. • Post-independence, efforts were made to revive traditional weaving and crafts.
   • Organizations like the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) and craft fairs promoted indigenous techniques.

2. Global Recognition:

1. • Fabrics like Banarasi silk, Mysore silk, Kanjeevaram, Chanderi, and Pashmina have gained international acclaim.
   • Indian designers have brought traditional techniques into contemporary fashion, blending the old with the new.

3. Sustainable Practices:

1. • India remains a leader in handwoven fabrics, with many artisans still using traditional, sustainable methods.
   • The global demand for eco-friendly and handmade textiles has further strengthened India’s role in the fabric industry.

Iconic Indian Fabrics

1. Muslin: Fine cotton, often sheer, highly prized in ancient and colonial times.
2. Chintz: Printed or painted cotton, popular in Europe during the 17th and 18th centuries.
3. Bandhani: Tie-dyed fabric, known for its intricate patterns.
4. Silks: Including Kanjeevaram, Banarasi, and Assam silks, known for their luxurious texture and rich designs.
5. Pashmina: Hand-spun and handwoven wool from Kashmir, famed for its softness.

Indian fabrics are more than just cloth—they are a repository of history, culture, and identity. From ancient trade routes to modern fashion runways, they tell stories of resilience and artistic excellence. Today, India’s textile legacy continues to inspire, innovate, and connect the past with the future.